Sokol Spirit and Garçonne Fashion

During the Balkan Wars and World War I, women actively participated both on the front lines and behind them. They were more than present in traditionally male spaces, whether individually or as part of women’s organizations and societies, serving as warriors, nurses, and humanitarians who collected aid for soldiers and civilians affected by the war.

This was a period in which women demonstrated their capabilities beyond the patriarchal roles within the family, becoming participants in historical events in roles that were respected and valued in society. However, medals and decorations for wartime contributions were not enough to change women’s status in peacetime or grant them full legal and social equality.

After the war, people had to deal with the devastation left behind while simultaneously keeping pace with the rapid women’s emancipation movement, which was advancing from European cultural centers. Social and cultural life was being restored, and newspapers increasingly featured pages dedicated to fashion news from Paris, London, and Vienna. Instead of military boots, the sound of women’s heels—growing taller by the year—began to dominate the streets.

Fashion changes were revolutionary. During the war, women wore comfortable clothing without excessive details. Dresses inspired by nurse uniforms, wide skirts reaching mid-calf, blouses, and tunics became popular for their practicality. In her publication Fashion in Belgrade 1918–1941, Bojana Popović writes: “The search for a new fashion style that met the needs of the modern, emancipated woman lasted several years. The new ‘boyish’ or ‘garçon’ fashion was fully established in 1923 and lasted until the end of the decade. By embracing ‘boyish’ fashion, modern women demonstrated their awareness that not only were their abilities equal to men’s, but that they did not even need to resemble the underestimated ‘weaker sex’ physically.”

The Sokolska societies supported this seemingly marginal struggle for equality. The widespread Sokol movement’s main goal was “to create physically strong, morally and intellectually developed youth”, where every member was equal regardless of gender, occupation, religion, or nationality. Although primarily remembered as a sports organization, the Sokols also played a significant role in education, culture, and public enlightenment. Women actively participated in their emancipatory efforts, with Sokol publications addressing issues such as female education, health, and even the concept of beauty.

Sokolice svečano odelo 1930

In the Sokol Gazette of 1923, Miroslav Ambrožić dedicated several articles to Sokol Educational Methodology, beginning with the chapter “Sokol Education with Regard to Beauty.” He wrote: “A person carries within them a sense of beauty, which is pleasing… The sense of beauty goes hand in hand with the sense of nobility.” Citing extensive literature, Ambrožić emphasized the importance of harmony, freedom of movement, and perseverance in sports and exercises that would “enhance the athletes’ bodies in an aesthetic sense.” The increased participation of women in sports also influenced fashion changes. Attempts by designers—who, inspired by past eras, sought to revive the restrictive fashion of the late 19th century, with corsets that cinched the waist and emphasized the bust—were deemed unacceptable. Discussions about the negative effects of corsets on women’s health had already taken place in academic circles, and this debate continued into the 1920s.

In the Sokol Gazette of 1923, Ambrožić also discussed the importance of gymnastic exercises in achieving harmonious body proportions as the fundamental standard of beauty. He stated: “Throughout history, various clothing fashions have emerged that do not align with hygienic principles: clothing should never hinder the body’s development or the function of individual organs… The wearing of corsets is truly unacceptable. Until recently, all women wore corsets if they wanted to dress fashionably. In recent years, this terrible armor has slowly begun to disappear, but it has not yet been forgotten. The new fashion promises its return, despite the extensive literature proving the harmful health effects caused by corsets. Prolonged corset-wearing not only deforms the body, making it anything but beautiful, but it also severely damages health.”

Fashion, as a reflection of its era, also hinted at broader changes in women’s social position. The new fashion line, which was comfortable, practical, and liberating, influenced the design of Sokol uniforms as well. The large membership of Sokol societies played a role in raising awareness of women’s equal participation in all aspects of social life.

Kostim, Paken, »Femina«, Pariz, april 1919. (fotografija preuzeta iz knjige Bojane Popović “Moda u Beogradu 1918-1941.”